With a perfect mid-week weather window, my daughter Rose and I decided to sneak away for an overnight tramp close to home. The plan was a night in the Orongorongo Valley, somewhere quiet, surrounded by forest, with time to just slow down and enjoy being outdoors together.

Up the Whakanui Track

We set off from Sunny Grove in Wainuiomata on a beautiful Wednesday afternoon, climbing steadily up the Whakanui Track. The track winds through lush native forest, alive with birdsong and dappled sunlight. It’s a solid three to four hours to reach the Orongorongo Stream from this side, but with light packs and a bit of chatter, the time passed easily. We saw only one other person all day — a rare thing so close to Wellington.

Into the Valley

Dropping down into the Orongorongo Valley, the sound of the stream welcomed us. We found a sunny patch of moss, spread out our cheese and crackers, and just lay back soaking in the warmth and stillness. There’s something special about that valley — once you’re in it, the rest of the world seems to disappear.

After a long, lazy pause, we wandered further down the valley to a spot I’d long wanted to camp: near the bridge by the Five-Mile Track. A stand of towering tawa trees offered a perfect clearing for our tent. We pitched up on the edge, tried (unsuccessfully) to coax a small campfire to life, and eventually settled for the hiss of the gas cooker instead.

Evening Under the Stars

Dinner was simple, but the evening was magic. As the sun slipped behind the hills, the stars began to appear one by one. We took the fly off the tent so we could watch the night sky through the mesh — lying there together, wrapped up warm, just watching the stars, was a moment I’ll never forget.

The Return Journey

In the morning, we packed up and followed the Five-Mile Track out, climbing up to meet the Mount McKerrow Track and following the ridge back toward Wainuiomata. Rather than returning the same way, we dropped down an alternate route — a steep 4WD track leading — and were back at Sunny Grove just after lunch.

It was the perfect little city-edge adventure: peaceful, beautiful, and easy to fit into a mid-week break. If you’re looking for an accessible overnight tramp with a real sense of escape, the Orongorongos never disappoint.