Some trips come together perfectly, and some are the result of a change in plans. Our adventure in Tongariro National Park was the latter. Originally, we had our sights set on the Kaikoura Range, but the weather had other ideas. Instead, Paul, Marta and I decided to take on a three peaks traverse of Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro—an ambitious route linking three of the North Island’s most iconic volcanic summits.

An Early Start on Ruapehu

We set off from Blyth Hut just before 6 AM on a perfectly clear Saturday morning. The sunrise painted the landscape in hues of orange and pink as we began our climb toward the high peak of Ruapehu. The final 400 vertical meters involved firm snow, making us grateful for our decision to bring crampons instead of just microspikes.

Reaching the crater rim, we were treated to an incredible panoramic view—Taranaki to the west, Lake Taupō to the north, and the next two peaks of our journey, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, standing tall in the distance.

Traversing the Summit Plateau and the Waihohonu Ridge

After taking in the view, we scrambled down steep, loose terrain toward Crater Lake, crossing the vast, frozen expanse of the summit plateau. The icy landscape, combined with the crisp morning air, made this a surreal and humbling place to traverse.

From there, we sidled around Pinnacle Ridge and began our descent down Waihohonu Ridge—a route that offered breathtaking views of Ngauruhoe growing ever larger in the distance. The descent was rugged, but as we lost elevation, the terrain became easier to navigate.

Eventually, we met up with the Tama Lakes track, where we re-entered the world of marked trails and day hikers. The first sign of civilization we’d seen all day.

The Long Haul to Ngauruhoe

Originally, we had planned to bivvy at Tama Lakes, but we arrived much earlier than expected and decided to push on. After a brief water stop, we estimated it would take about three hours to summit Ngauruhoe—and we were spot on.

Climbing the southwest slopes of Ngauruhoe was punishing. The loose volcanic scree made for frustrating progress: one step forward, half a step back. But by 6 PM, we reached the summit, exhausted but elated.

Looking back at Ruapehu, now far behind us, and forward to Tongariro, we knew the day wasn’t over yet.

Sunset on Tongariro

Descending Ngauruhoe’s scree slopes wasn’t as easy as we’d hoped. What was once a runner’s dream descent now felt more like an obstacle course of loose rock. By the time we reached the Tongariro Alpine Crossing track, the light was fading, and we took a moment to enjoy a well-earned cup of soup.

Then, as the sun set, we tackled the final push: the ridgeline leading up to the high point of Tongariro. This section was fast and straightforward, and as we reached the summit, the sky exploded into a tapestry of colors—one of those moments that makes every bit of effort worth it.

From there, the descent to Mangatepopo Hut felt long, our bodies fatigued from nearly 16 hours of continuous movement. But we had made it.

A Night Under the Stars

Arriving at 10 PM, we found the hut full but made do with an outdoor bivy on the deck. With every piece of warm clothing layered on, I crawled into my sleeping bag and fell asleep under a sky littered with stars—a perfect end to an unforgettable journey.

The next morning, after a leisurely breakfast, we made our way to Mangatepopo car park, where a shuttle was waiting to return us to our starting point.

Final Thoughts

The Three Peaks Traverse of Tongariro National Park is a stunning, challenging, and deeply rewarding adventure. The mix of volcanic terrain, high-altitude travel, and the ever-changing conditions make it an experience unlike any other in the North Island. It’s tough, but if you’re prepared and up for a challenge, it’s absolutely worth it.